We know Mashhad by the golden dome of Imam Reza shrine, a place for pilgrimage and performing religious rituals for Muslims. Most tourists travel to this significant city for this purpose. However, it isn’t bad to be a little curious while traveling and discover the hidden attractions of our destination. In these wanderings, we may encounter things that alter our perception of the destination. This process deepens our understanding of cities and the cultures of their people.
We know that Iran is recognized as a Muslim country, but a percentage of followers from other religions also reside in various cities of Iran. Our perception of Mashhad assumes that everyone is Muslim and Shiite, but such a perception doesn’t align well with reality. Mashhad, like other cities or countries in the world, harbors residents of other religions at its core. An example of this is the discovery of the Saint Mesrop church, the subject of this blog at overiran tourism magazine. We aim to uncover the story behind this historic church in Mashhad and explore its characteristics.
When did the Armenians come to Mashhad?
You might wonder how an Armenian church could be discovered in a city that serves as the capital of Islam in Iran. Well, it must be noted that not everyone in Iran adheres to Islam. Mashhad is no exception in this regard. These historical churches and temples also showcase the diversity of religions among the populace.
It’s said that Nadershah Afshar relocated some Armenians from Jolfa to Mashhad during his conflicts with the Ottomans, resulting in the presence of Armenians in Mashhad. Following this migration, it appears they were not treated fairly by the government, restricted to professions such as goldsmithing, jewelry making, and commerce!
Who is Saint Mesrop?
Mesrop Maschtoz, after whom this church was named, is the creator of the Armenian alphabet. Due to this significance, churches have been erected in Arak and Rasht under the name of Holy Mesrop.
The time of construction of Sint Mesrop Church
From the explanations provided, it’s nearly evident how the Armenians came to Mashhad. It’s possible they had other places of worship before Mesrop Church. There’s even mention that Nader Shah constructed a church for them, though no traces of it remain today.
The holy Mesrop Church dates back to the first Pahlavi era, established in 1941. It’s believed this church was erected by the Armenians of Mashhad for their worship on Arg Street (now Imam Khomeini Street), near 3rd Esfand Square. Legend has it that as the Armenian population in Mashhad grew, they petitioned the governor of Khorasan to construct a prayer hall. This request was granted, leading to the establishment of the holy Mesrop Church.
Despite its name being Mesrop Holy, locals also recognize this church as saint Mary. The church fell under the supervision of the Jolfa Armenian caliphate in Isfahan. After three years of correspondence and with the governorate’s approval, they finally managed to purchase a 223-meter plot of land adjacent to the city ditch to build the church.
It’s recounted that the Holy Mesrop Church operated until the late 70s with a stationed priest. However, due to Armenian migration, this church nearly closed down and fell into disrepair. Eventually, with the involvement of the Tehran Armenian Caliphate Council and cultural heritage authorities, this 76-year-old church was registered in the national records and underwent restoration and renovation across several stages.
A tour inside the Holy Mesrop Church
This church is truly one of the best places to visit in Mashhad. Firstly, the church boasts two conical domes adorned with iron crosses. The larger dome encompasses the main hall, encircled by a border of white tiles embellished with green patterns. Another dome crowns the entrance door.
Initially, three entrances were planned for the church due to the surrounding empty space. However, as time passed and additional structures like the library, school, and priest’s house were built around it, only one entrance remained. An inscription in Armenian at the entrance denotes the building’s date. Initially, there were challenges in installing the church bell at this entrance. During the 2500-year celebration of Mohammad Reza Shah’s reign, the king ordered the church bell to ring in honor of the occasion. Seizing the opportunity, Armenians transported the bell from Isfahan to Mashhad and successfully installed it.
The church follows an almost trapezoidal plan, occupying a base of 300 square meters. Paintings donated to the church range from 30 to 70 years old. The old silverware from this church, alongside an embroidered painting of saint Mary, has been relocated to the Tehran Museum.
Within the church, numerous Bibles are available in both Armenian and Persian languages. A distinctive metal cross, crafted in Kashan, adorns the table used for the consecration ceremony involving bread and wine.
Towards the church’s southern part lies a room once utilized as a library. It’s believed that this library stands as a legacy of Armenians from Sabzevar and Qochan, with collections transferred here in 1340 AH. The library houses around 4,000 books, predominantly in Armenian and Russian. Unfortunately, humidity had threatened the destruction of these books, prompting their relocation to a more secure location.
Finally
Perhaps you are one of the travelers to Mashhad who have visited this city numerous times, passing by this church without knowing what lies inside or the stories it holds.
Such realizations urge us to pay closer attention to what we witness and hear. We hope you’ll take the opportunity to visit this church and share your experience with me.